Planting Instructions

When and Where

Roses are typically planted in early spring or late fall. A late fall planting is best in climates where the rose will become dormant over winter, rather than freezing. During the cool fall weather, the newly planted rose will make new roots that will give it a head start in the spring.

Spring planting should take place after all danger of a hard freeze has passed. You will still need to protect your rose from heavy frosts, but as soon as the weather warms up, your rose will begin putting out new roots and green shoots. Leaves will begin appearing and your new rose will be on its way!

Many people are hesitant to plant bare root roses. The good news is that roses want to grow badly enough to overcome most deficiencies in technique. If you plant them 'green side up' and water until the worms wiggle, you're almost guaranteed success. A little insight into planting techniques, however, will ensure a more vigorous and healthy plant.

How to Plant (Bare Root)

Before planting, submerge the entire bush in a bucket of water to which a few tablespoons of a transplant solution, such as Vitamin B-1, have been added. Your rose should soak for at least twelve hours to re-hydrate the root system after several days, or even weeks, of exposure to less-than-perfect moisture conditions. If you are delayed in planting, your rose bush can soak for three to four days, but remember to change the water daily to discourage bacterial growth.

The hole in which you plant is an important aspect in growing good roses from bare root plants. Dig a 60 cm (2') square hole 60 cm (2') deep. The hole must be deep to allow drainage. Disregarding anchor roots, which are not the main nutrient suppliers, most roses grow only about 30 cm (12") deep. They require a lot of water and won't tolerate wet feet from lack of drainage. You can check your drainage by filling your planting hole with water. If it takes more than an hour to drain, you should add a 10 to 12.5 cm (4-5") layer of gravel to the bottom of the hole.

Place your rose bush over a cone of soil, gently spreading the roots out over it. Position it so that the bud union is at the proper height by pushing the plant down slowly on the cone, taking care not to break the roots.

There are many theories among rose growers regarding the optimal height to plant the bud union. Where winter temperatures are extreme (below -5 degrees C, or 20 degrees F), the bud union should be a little below soil level to protect it from freezing. In moderate climates, the bud union should be 2.5 to 5 cm (1-2") above the soil surface.

While holding your rose in position, filter soil around its roots. As you fill the hole, press down gently to eliminate air pockets, being careful to avoid compacting the soil and damaging the roots. When the hole is half full, water well and allow to drain. Finish filling the hole to soil level, and form a water well around the plant that is slightly larger in diameter than the root system. Keep the bud union protected and your bare root rose should bloom in ten to twelve weeks.

How to Plant (Potted)

Potted roses are easier to plant because the bush already has an established root system. Potted roses can be planted at any time during the growing season. Tip the pot on its side and tap the ball of roots out. You may need to squeeze the pot or tap the bottom to loosen the plant. Set the root system into your prepared hole so that the bud union is just below the soil line. Refill the hole with soil and water as with bare root roses.

Soil Composition

All soils contain minerals and soil organisms which are necessary to break down organic amendments and fertilizers, making them available to the plant roots. What some soils lack is 'organic' material. To increase the amount of organic material in your soil, add compost, mulch or peat to make a mixture that is half garden soil and half organic material. When you have thoroughly mixed the amendments into the garden soil, refill the hole half-way with the mixture. Then, fill the hole with water and allow it to drain to settle the soil.

Trimming and Maintenance

Cut off any broken roots just above the break, as damaged tissue can harbor disease. Next, reduce the cane length to about 15 to 20 cm (6-8") maximum. This will allow the root system to gather enough water and nutrients to support top growth. If the canes are overly large, the roots will not be able to produce enough water and nutrients to support the plant, resulting in spindly top growth. Coming out of cold storage is like coming out of dormancy, which means that each bud eye will vigorously try to produce foliage and blooms. If you reduce the number of bud eyes, it will allow the roots to develop along with the top and result in a healthier plant.

Make your cuts 1 cm (1/4") above a bud eye growing away from the centre of the bush, at a 45-degree angle sloping away from the bud eye. If there any new shoots that have already started to grow along the remaining cane, cut them off. They will re-grow. Each bud has two or three 'eyes' as a natural defense against damage or frost.